This six-part series is meant to be read bottom to top, installment I to installment VI. Sorry for the inconvenience. It’’s taken me too long to post all this and I’m not going to change it.
More walking adventures and a fond farewell
We set out to find Little Italy. Back on the subway, an operator said MTA had shut down service in the area we wanted to go due to a fire. Above ground again, we wandered and found ourselves at the corner of Houston and something looking at our map (again). A homeless guy on the corner asked, “where ya going.” We told him, and he said to head south to Mulberry, take a right, and in a few blocks we’d run smack dab into Little Italy. He also gave recommendations, with the precision one would expect from a food crtitic, on the reasons we should visit a certain restaurant, the name of which I’ve forgotten, and said to save room for dessert at Ferrara’s. “Ferrara’s is famous for desserts.” The guy knew what he was talking about and following his tip, for which we gave him a dollar, saved us stress and time. Mulberry St. was barricaded for blocks in Little Italy, and the area was a festive array of eateries and shopping—for kitsch and cookware. We had the BEST slice of brick oven pizza and a beer for $6; the corner restaurant was lovely but I’ve forgotten the name. Although they chased us from the “real” menu eaters on the sidewalk, I managed to snap a photo there and it was fun to watch the dough tossing, meat slicing, and other general pizzeria/Italian restaurant goings on inside.

- Outdoor diners in lovely Little Italy

After that yummy experience, we wandered past Ferrara’s. We were not hungry, having eaten our way across about four miles thus far, but they had a portable gelato/ice cream station set up outside. For $3, a “small cup” was two generous scoops of delicious pistachio ice cream. SO good. We wandered up the block and found ourselves in Chinatown. Little elbow room was to be had; all the vendors were selling food on the blocked-off street. Most of the food we didn’t recognize, so much unusual produce. Long, curved squash or zucchini-looking things with deep lobes, light purple eggplant, and more. The meat was a little sad to see. Large trash barrels, 1/3 full of water, holding hundreds of live frogs, each one at least 4” diameter. Fish in all stages of living, dead and butchered prepearation. Some of the sea creature parts, we never could identify. All the labels were in Chinese. We speculated that one tray of very large white, triangular cuts might be rays. I was too shocked to take any photos there.
Chinatown seemed to go on forever and we found ourselves wanting to be out of the sad marketplace. Turning to a new street, Chinese-staffed stores hawked every variety of cheap, blingy gold jewelry and accoutrements for two blocks. Then we were in Soho. More lack of elbow room, stores selling trashy jewelry and the accoutrements of adolescence. We chose a quiet side street after being mildly amused at standing on the corner of Greene & Canal—after all, we have that same corner here at home too!
Soho quickly medts into a markedly more upscale, less crowded area, paved with bricks and lined with the outlets of designers of all sorts of immeasurably expensive things. We enjoyed walking on the quieter streets there and stopped to take in the window display of a store that specialized in larger than life hanging tile mosaic art. The art itself was stunning; so was the elaborate tiling on the floor…a whole showroom done in a scalloped design using tiles only about ¾” square. Such craftsmanship! Later, I stopped to snap a photo of a doorway. This one sported a sign begging “no menus” above the mail slot.
We had had quite enough of finding our way around on the MTA system, and had covered in excess of nine miles on foot this day, so we allowed ourselves the luxury of a cab to return to the Wellington. Another short nap and change of clothes later, we were recharged for our serious 5K celebration date (it’s easier to celebrate when it’s not pouring rain).
We walked in the dark several blocks to the Pony Bar, located in Hell’s Kitchen. We brushed close enough to the crowds in Times Square to confirm our notion that avoiding that area was the right move…all lights, glitz and chain restaurants, and besides, we’d been there just last November. This trip was about unique experiences. The Pony Bar did not disappoint. Its menu of only American microwbrews on tap, good music, a small but happy crowd, and oak surroundings that reminded us of our own pub room at home. They served up fried green beans with hot mustard; very tasty and a treat after a long day of walking. We left with T-shirts (legally obtained) and two coasters (swiped), the latter for our home collection. A quieter route home found us back at 55th St. Deli for a salad supper as our nightcap.
03 Aug. Monday: As usual, Ron was awake earlier and got our deli caffeine and fruit. The cab delivered us to La Guardia at about 7:10 AM. Farewell, NYC, and thanks for a great vacation!
